20 Softscape Installation Practice Questions & Answers

1. 1. A load of balled-and-burlapped shade trees arrives on site. Which condition seen at unloading is the strongest reason to reject a tree instead of planting it?

   • A.A few interior leaves have yellowed and dropped during several days of shipping in a covered trailer.
   • B.The root ball has cracked and pulled away from the trunk, and loose soil falls out when it is lifted.✓ Answer
   • C.The root ball is heavy and its surface is damp because the nursery watered the stock before loading.
   • D.The burlap wrapping is stained with soil marks from being dragged across the bed of the delivery truck.

   A broken root ball has torn the fine absorbing roots away from the soil that feeds them, and that contact cannot be rebuilt in the field, so the tree is unlikely to establish. Soil stains on burlap, a little interior leaf drop after days in transit, and a heavy damp ball are all normal and are not grounds for rejection.

   Source: ANSI Z60.1 American Standard for Nursery Stock (root ball requirements); NALP Landscape Training Manual for Installation Technicians, plant inspection and handlingReport a problem with this question

2. 2. Nursery stock is hauled an hour to the job and then has to be held on site for several days before planting. Which handling plan protects the plants?

   • A.Cover the load with solid plastic sheeting, then set the plants in full sun so the foliage dries.
   • B.Park the load in a closed trailer overnight, then hold the stock dry so the root balls stay firm.
   • C.Cover the load with a mesh tarp, then hold the plants in shade and keep the root balls moist.✓ Answer
   • D.Lay the plants loose on their sides untied, then stand them in the open and water on planting day.

   A mesh tarp breaks the wind that strips moisture from foliage while still letting air move through the load; solid plastic traps heat and cooks the crown. Stock held on site keeps its root balls moist and shaded, bare-root material is heeled in, and every plant is carried by the ball or container rather than by the trunk.

   Source: NALP Landscape Training Manual for Installation Technicians, receiving, transporting and storing plant materialReport a problem with this question

3. 3. Why does compacted soil in a new planting area restrict root growth, and how is it corrected before planting?

   • A.Compaction collapses the large pores that hold air and water, so till the whole area while it is moist.✓ Answer
   • B.Compaction traps excess air near the roots, so roll the area firm and dig deep narrow holes.
   • C.Compaction affects only the surface crust, so rake the top inch smooth and plant into the subsoil.
   • D.Compaction raises the soil's nitrogen demand, so broadcast fertilizer over the area and water it in.

   Roots need oxygen and they extend through the large pores between soil aggregates; compaction crushes those pores, so water perches, oxygen falls and roots stop elongating. The cure is mechanical loosening of the whole rooting area, done when the soil is moist rather than wet, because working wet soil destroys structure and re-compacts it.

   Source: NALP Certified Landscape Technician (Exterior), Softscape Horticultural Principles, soil preparation; USDA NRCS soil quality guidance on soil compactionReport a problem with this question

4. 4. A crew is improving a heavy bed soil with compost. Why is the compost tilled uniformly through the soil instead of spread as a separate layer beneath the topsoil?

   • A.A blended profile is needed because compost loses its weed-suppressing value once it is covered.
   • B.A buried layer breaks down faster and releases its nutrients before the new plants can take them up.
   • C.A separate layer is acceptable only where the bed will hold annuals rather than woody shrub material.
   • D.A blended profile drains and holds moisture evenly, while a distinct layer creates an interface roots stop at.✓ Answer

   Water moves through soil by capillary attraction, and it will not cross freely between two materials of very different texture, so a discrete band of organic matter perches water above it and roots turn rather than grow through. Uniform incorporation changes drainage and water-holding capacity through the whole rooting zone instead of building an interface.

   Source: NALP Softscape Horticultural Principles, soil amendment methods; LCA Landscape Specification Guidelines, Exterior Landscape Installation, soil preparationReport a problem with this question

5. 5. Shrubs in an established bed show yellowing between the leaf veins. Before any amendment or fertilizer is ordered, what should the technician do first?

   • A.Take a representative soil sample for testing, since pH and nutrient levels govern what roots can absorb.✓ Answer
   • B.Spread lime across the bed, since yellow foliage in landscape beds reliably indicates soil that is too acid.
   • C.Apply a complete fertilizer at label rate, since yellowing between the veins is almost always low nitrogen.
   • D.Drench the bed with iron, since a soil test cannot report the micronutrients behind this leaf pattern.

   Interveinal yellowing usually means a nutrient is present but unavailable, and availability is controlled by soil pH, so treating without a test can push the pH the wrong way and make the problem worse. A soil test reports pH, buffering, phosphorus, potassium, organic matter and cation exchange capacity, which is what tells the technician whether to change pH or supply a nutrient.

   Source: NALP Softscape Horticultural Principles, soil testing and amendment; Cooperative Extension guidance on soil test interpretationReport a problem with this question

6. 6. A container-grown tree is going into firm clay soil. How should the planting hole be shaped in relation to the root ball?

   • A.Much wider than the ball with sloping sides, and no deeper than the ball so it sits on undug soil.✓ Answer
   • B.The same width as the ball but noticeably deeper, with loose backfill placed under the ball to drain.
   • C.Narrow with smooth vertical walls, so the ball is gripped firmly and the tree cannot lean.
   • D.Wider than the ball and deeper as well, so amended soil surrounds the roots on every side.

   New roots spread outward near the surface, so a wide hole with sloping, roughened sides gives them loosened soil to grow into, while a glazed vertical wall in clay behaves like the side of a pot and turns roots back. Digging no deeper than the ball leaves it resting on undisturbed soil so the tree cannot settle below grade as loose backfill compresses.

   Source: ANSI A300 Part 6, Planting and Transplanting, planting hole preparation; NALP Landscape Training Manual for Installation Technicians, tree plantingReport a problem with this question

7. 7. A container tree arrives with several inches of loose potting soil mounded over the base of the trunk. What sets the planting depth?

   • A.The lowest branch is held a set height above grade, and the ball is buried deeper on exposed windy sites.
   • B.The root flare, once the excess soil is pulled off, is set level with or slightly above finished grade.✓ Answer
   • C.The bottom of the ball is set on loose backfill, and the excess soil is left on to hold moisture.
   • D.The top of the container soil is set flush with finished grade, since the nursery potted the tree correctly.

   The root flare is where the trunk widens into the structural roots, and it marks the level at which those roots grew in the nursery, so it is the reference for depth. Container and field soil is often mounded above the flare during production, and if that soil is taken as the top of the ball the tree is planted too deep from the start.

   Source: ANSI A300 Part 6, Planting and Transplanting, root flare and planting depth; NALP Landscape Training Manual for Installation Technicians, tree plantingReport a problem with this question

8. 8. A tree is planted so that its root flare finishes several inches below the surrounding grade. What is the likely result?

   • A.The deeper ball reaches cooler moist soil, so the tree needs far less water during establishment.
   • B.The buried trunk puts out new anchoring roots, so the tree establishes faster than one set at grade.
   • C.Bark at the buried flare stays wet and decays while roots sit in low oxygen, and the tree declines.✓ Answer
   • D.The added soil insulates the roots from frost, so the tree leafs out earlier in its first spring.

   Trunk bark is not adapted to constant soil moisture, so a buried flare stays damp and breaks down, and the roots below it lose the oxygen exchange they depend on. The decline is gradual, which is why deep planting is so often missed: the tree may take several seasons to show thin canopy, dieback and stem-girdling roots.

   Source: ANSI A300 Part 6, Planting and Transplanting, planting depth; NALP Softscape Horticultural Principles, tree plantingReport a problem with this question

9. 9. A container shrub is slipped out of its pot and the outer roots circle tightly around the ball. What should be done before it is set in the hole?

   • A.Leave the roots alone and plant it deeper, so the covered circling roots are forced downward.
   • B.Set the ball exactly as it came out of the pot, since cutting container roots causes fatal shock.
   • C.Slice through the circling roots on several sides and tease the outer roots outward, then plant.✓ Answer
   • D.Shave the whole outer surface off the ball until only bare potting mix is left showing.

   A root that keeps circling continues to circle after planting, and as it and the stem thicken it presses against the stem and girdles it, cutting off the flow of water and food. Cutting the circling roots forces branching from the cut ends so new roots grow outward into the backfill, and the plant tolerates that pruning far better than the girdling it prevents.

   Source: ANSI A300 Part 6, Planting and Transplanting, root management at planting; NALP Landscape Training Manual for Installation Technicians, shrub plantingReport a problem with this question

10. 10. A balled-and-burlapped tree has been set plumb in the hole and partly backfilled. What is done about the twine, burlap and wire basket?

    • A.Cut the trunk twine away, then cut back and remove the top of the basket and burlap.✓ Answer
    • B.Take the basket and the burlap fully off before the tree is lowered into the hole.
    • C.Cut the burlap only at the base of the ball, so the wrapping holds the ball tight.
    • D.Leave all of it in place, since the basket and burlap rot away before roots reach them.

    The wrapping holds the ball together while the tree is moved and set, so it is opened only after the tree is stable in the hole; twine left around the trunk will girdle it, and the upper basket wire and burlap sit where new roots must cross and where exposed burlap wicks water away. The lower wrapping is left because removing it at that stage would break the ball apart.

    Source: ANSI A300 Part 6, Planting and Transplanting, removal of packaging materials; LCA Landscape Specification Guidelines, Exterior Landscape InstallationReport a problem with this question

11. 11. A tree is set plumb at the correct depth. How should the pit be backfilled and finished?

    • A.Return the native soil in one lift, tread it firm, and mound the leftover soil over the ball.
    • B.Return the native soil dry and wait for rain to settle it, so watering cannot wash it away.
    • C.Return the native soil in layers, water each layer to settle voids, and form a berm at the pit edge.✓ Answer
    • D.Return a rich mix of compost and sand, tamp it hard with the heel, and leave the surface flat.

    Backfill is predominantly the soil that came out of the hole so roots meet one continuous material instead of a rich pocket they will not leave, and watering each layer closes air pockets without the over-compaction that heel tamping causes. The raised berm turns the pit into a basin that holds each watering over the root ball rather than letting it run off.

    Source: LCA Landscape Specification Guidelines, Exterior Landscape Installation, backfilling and watering; NALP Landscape Training Manual for Installation Technicians, tree plantingReport a problem with this question

12. 12. When is staking a newly planted tree the right decision?

    • A.Whenever the soil is sandy, since sand cannot grip a root ball however it is backfilled.
    • B.When the tree cannot hold itself upright, or the site is windy, or the root ball is small.✓ Answer
    • C.On every tree taller than head height, since nursery stock has too little root mass to anchor it.
    • D.Only on bare-root trees, since balled and container stock carry enough soil to stay put.

    Staking is a judgement made tree by tree, not a routine step, because a tree that can stand on its own develops better trunk taper and anchor roots without support. Support is added when the root ball is too small or too light to hold the crown, when the site is exposed to strong wind, or when the tree is otherwise unstable in the hole.

    Source: ANSI A300 Part 3, Supplemental Support Systems, staking of newly planted trees; NALP Landscape Training Manual for Installation Technicians, tree stakingReport a problem with this question

13. 13. A crew ties a young tree so tightly to two stakes that the trunk cannot move at all. Why is this wrong, and how should it be tied?

    • A.Rigid tying traps moisture on the bark; tie with bare rope low down so the contact area stays dry.
    • B.Rigid tying stops the root ball from settling; tie at the top of the trunk to hold the crown steady.
    • C.Rigid tying prevents the taper a trunk builds; tie with broad flexible material that allows sway.✓ Answer
    • D.Rigid tying makes the crown grow too fast; tie with thin wire so the trunk is checked as it thickens.

    A trunk thickens in response to the bending stress it feels, so a stem held rigid stays slender and weak and snaps or bends when the ties come off. Ties are made of broad, smooth, flexible material attached low enough to leave the top of the tree free to move a little, which supports the root ball while letting the trunk keep developing.

    Source: ANSI A300 Part 3, Supplemental Support Systems, attachment materials and trunk movement; NALP Landscape Training Manual for Installation Technicians, tree stakingReport a problem with this question

14. 14. A tree staked at planting has come through a full growing season and now stands on its own. What should the crew do?

    • A.Replace the ties with wire looped on the bark, which lasts far longer outdoors.
    • B.Remove the stakes, ties and hose so the hardware cannot cut into the thickening trunk.✓ Answer
    • C.Loosen the ties but keep the stakes, since anchor roots take many years to form.
    • D.Leave the system standing several more years, adding ties as the trunk widens.

    Support hardware is temporary by design and is taken off about a year after planting, once the tree stands unaided, because the trunk grows outward into anything left around it and the tie then girdles the stem. Removing the whole assembly also ends the restraint that was keeping the trunk from building taper and strength.

    Source: ANSI A300 Part 3, Supplemental Support Systems, inspection and removal of support hardware; NALP Landscape Training Manual for Installation Technicians, tree stakingReport a problem with this question

15. 15. How should mulch be applied over and around the root ball of a newly planted tree?

    • A.A deep layer over the area and the trunk base as well, which keeps weeds down much longer.
    • B.A thin ring set well away from the trunk, so soil over the ball dries between waterings.
    • C.An even layer over the planting area, pulled back clear of the trunk so the flare stays exposed.✓ Answer
    • D.A cone piled against the trunk and tapering outward, which steadies the tree and sheds rain.

    Mulch works by conserving soil moisture, moderating soil temperature, suppressing weeds and keeping mowers away from the trunk, and a moderate even layer does all of that; piled too deep it sheds rain off the ball and starves roots of oxygen. Mulch heaped against the trunk keeps the bark wet, which invites rot, stem-girdling roots and rodent damage, so it is always pulled back to leave the root flare visible.

    Source: ANSI A300 Part 2, Soil Management, mulching; NALP Landscape Training Manual for Installation Technicians, mulch applicationReport a problem with this question

16. 16. What does a defined edge installed between a lawn and a planting bed accomplish?

    • A.It lifts the bed above the lawn so bed irrigation runs off toward the turf area.
    • B.It removes the need to mulch, since bare soil inside an edge stays free of weeds.
    • C.It lets the mower deck ride onto the bed so no hand trimming around plants is needed.
    • D.It keeps mulch inside the bed and blocks turf rhizomes from creeping into the planting.✓ Answer

    Spreading turf grasses invade beds by creeping stems below and above ground, and a continuous physical edge set into the soil interrupts that path while also holding mulch in place instead of letting it wash into the lawn. The edge additionally gives the mower a clean line to follow, which reduces trimmer contact with stems and trunks.

    Source: NALP Landscape Training Manual for Installation Technicians, edger installation and bed edgingReport a problem with this question

17. 17. What must be done to the soil immediately before sod is laid on a prepared lawn area?

    • A.Leave the tilled soil loose and dry so new roots can push straight down into it.
    • B.Spread a layer of fresh mulch over the graded soil to hold moisture in the ground beneath.
    • C.Compact the whole area with a heavy roller so the sod cannot settle under traffic.
    • D.Fine grade the tilled soil, clear the debris, then lightly firm and moisten the surface.✓ Answer

    Sod roots into whatever it is laid on, so the surface must be smooth, free of stones and clods, and firm enough that it will not settle into ruts under the new lawn, yet still loose enough for roots to penetrate. Moistening the seedbed just before laying keeps the fine roots on the underside of the sod from drying against hot dry soil while the strips are being placed.

    Source: NALP Landscape Training Manual for Installation Technicians, turf installation and seedbed preparation; Cooperative Extension guidance on sod establishmentReport a problem with this question

18. 18. A crew is laying sod on a gentle slope beside a walk. Which laying method is correct?

    • A.Start along the walk, butt the seams tight, stagger the ends, and run strips across the slope.✓ Answer
    • B.Start at the top of the slope, stretch each piece slightly, and line the end joints up in rows.
    • C.Start in the middle of the lawn, overlap the seams slightly, and run strips down the slope.
    • D.Start along the walk, leave small gaps at the seams to expand, and run strips down the slope.

    A straight hard edge gives the first row a true line to work from, and tight butted seams with staggered ends keep the pieces from drying out at the joints and stop a continuous seam forming where water could channel. Strips run across the slope lie against the flow of water rather than along it, so runoff cannot lift an end and peel the row away; stretched sod shrinks as it dries and opens the same gaps it was meant to close.

    Source: NALP Landscape Training Manual for Installation Technicians, sod installation; Cooperative Extension guidance on sod establishment on slopesReport a problem with this question

19. 19. Sod has just been laid. What comes next, and how is the new lawn cared for over the first two weeks?

    • A.Roll it heavily, water briefly each afternoon, and mow it short within the first days.
    • B.Roll it lightly, water until the soil beneath is wet, and keep it moist with traffic off.✓ Answer
    • C.Fertilize it first, water once deeply, then let it dry fully between soakings.
    • D.Leave it unrolled, mist the surface daily, and open the lawn to normal use at once.

    Light rolling presses the underside of the sod into contact with the soil and removes the air pockets that would let the new roots dry out, and the first watering must go through the sod and wet the soil beneath it, because a wet mat over dry ground still leaves the roots nothing to grow into. The lawn is then kept consistently moist and free of traffic until the sod knits down, after which watering becomes deeper and less frequent.

    Source: NALP Landscape Training Manual for Installation Technicians, sod installation and establishment care; Cooperative Extension guidance on new sod wateringReport a problem with this question

20. 20. A tree planted last spring leafs out sparsely, carries small pale leaves and shows some twig dieback. What best explains this?

    • A.A root disease, because a tree that does not flush fully in its first season is usually infected.
    • B.Sun scald, because new foliage cannot tolerate direct sun during the first season after planting.
    • C.Transplant shock, because much of the absorbing root system was left behind when it was dug.✓ Answer
    • D.A nutrient shortage, because a field-dug root ball carries no nutrients of its own into the hole.

    Digging a field-grown tree severs most of the fine absorbing roots, so the crown demands more water than the remaining roots can supply and growth is reduced until the root system regenerates. That is why the establishment period runs through at least the first full growing season and why deep, targeted watering of the root ball, rather than fertilizer or fungicide, is the response.

    Source: NALP Softscape Horticultural Principles, transplant establishment; ANSI A300 Part 6, Planting and Transplanting, post-planting careReport a problem with this question

Practice questions based on the published content areas of the National Association of Landscape Professionals' Landscape Industry Certified Technician (Exterior) programme — the universal safety and hazard-communication elements every candidate takes, plus the plan reading, horticultural principles and calculation content behind the installation and maintenance specialties — together with standard horticulture, soils, turfgrass and hardscape construction references. This site is not affiliated with or endorsed by the National Association of Landscape Professionals. This bank covers written knowledge only; where a certification programme also assesses hands-on skill, that part is judged in the field and cannot be practised on a screen. Irrigation system design and troubleshooting, and arboriculture, are covered by our separate irrigation and arborist banks rather than here. Landscape work is governed by pesticide, licensing, water-use and vehicle rules that vary by state and locality — confirm what applies where you work, and confirm current certification requirements with NALP before testing. About NALP certification →